Sump To Summit

Super early (4 a.m.) start for us, for three reasons:

• Super popular route
• Super long route
• Wanted to be done in time for a beer

Our bags were packed the night before, so we just needed a quick breakfast before heading out for the climb. Everything in Ailefroide is within walking distance, so no need to move the van!

We set off on foot, following the poorly drawn sketch in the guidebook. The walk took longer than expected, with a few indirect turns at the start and a decent hike up the hill to reach the beginning of the climb.

We had two guidebooks with us: the Plasid Sud and the Rockfax app. Despite this, finding the start of the route was more challenging than it should have been. We initially followed the Plasid Sud sketch (a line of bolts to the left of a chiseled cross)—easy, right?

After climbing 20m up a slimy line of rock, I realized that although it seemed “do-able,” this pitch didn’t feel like a 4C. Almost simultaneously, El decided something was off and double-checked the Rockfax app. Sure enough, I had started up the wrong route. I tied into a bolt while El went to check for another line of bolts, only to find a couple from the Netherlands just starting up the correct climb (so much for our early start to get ahead!!!).

I got lowered off, and we set off up the correct route 😊.

Once on the right pitch, we climbed with ease. The route was 12 pitches long, with two standout pitches that really put some air beneath us—superb! The route followed the arête, and eventually, we decided to move together for efficiency.

After topping out, we began the enormous abseil! Our guidebook mentioned that the descent looked difficult, and the Cloggies (another climbing group) read us their route description, which emphasized paying close attention to the descent. I started down, making my way leftward as much as possible. After 50m, I found the correct ab point, 12m left of the tree (as advised in the book). El joined me, and we pulled the rope through to the next pair of bolts. The abseils were brilliant—a real highlight of the whole climb! When we got low enough, we looked up and saw exactly what the book had detailed—missing this point would lead to an absolute epic if you didn’t bear left.

At the bottom, we found ourselves further from our bags (and shoes) than we had thought. I’d definitely recommend bringing trainers with you. My feet were hurting, and walking in climbing shoes was painful. After a downclimb, I jarred my knee, which was very painful. I tried to carry on without shoes, but it was excruciating. El kindly went to get our belongings and brought my shoes to me while I was feeling sorry for myself. (This knee injury plagued me for the remainder of the trip!)

We made our way back down to the campsite, with El kindly carrying much more than her fair share. We capped off the day with beer and chips at the local bar. The whole adventure had taken much longer than we intended.

A cracking day out—highly recommended! I’d certainly advise carrying 20+ quickdraws to link harder pitches while moving together.

We never saw the Cloggies again!