Sump To Summit

We decided to climb in a different valley today, as it’s nice to mix things up and enjoy views other than the impressive Samazar Valley! We parked in a tiny settlement high up in the valley, fed the local cats, and then set off around the mountain toward the crag. The walk-in was straightforward, with barely any ascent—always a bonus!

A pair of climbers from Manchester arrived at the crag shortly after us. Since the climb was only three pitches, we let them lead off so we wouldn’t feel pressured for time. The route was a 4c. I led the first pitch, Ruby Crack, which was a solid start to the climb. El took on the middle pitch, and it turned out to be the standout of the day! It followed an incredible corner crack, with sections where you could bridge both sides of the wall—this was exactly the kind of climbing we’d come to Morocco for.

The final pitch was mine, continuing up the same corner and finishing over a boulder at the top, which formed a roof to the climb. I suspect this rock, perched above the massive corner crack, is where the climb gets its name: Guillotine.

We had lunch at the top, soaking in the views, before tackling the descent gully—which turned out to be a bit of a struggle. Back at the car, we had plenty of time to enjoy a relaxed evening… or so we thought. Unfortunately, the Kasbah had been taken over by around 20 dirt bikers, so it wasn’t quite the peaceful evening we’d hoped for!