Sump To Summit

We woke at 4.30am for breakfast and were climbing before the sun was even up. The approach was beautiful – watching the sunrise spill across the mountains made the early alarm feel worth it.

El took the first lead – a 5c pitch we’d read was better tackled by the shorter half of the team, since the following 6a was apparently easier for tall folk. It was a bit of a battle, but fun with it. She cruised the next pitch too – another 6a – and led it well.

I linked the next two – a 5b and 3c – and kept things moving nicely.

Then came the best pitch on the whole route. Another 5c, and it felt very British trad – bit spicy, good movement, and plenty of character. El climbed it with finesse, steady and smooth.

I took over again and linked the next two 6b pitches. From there, the climbing eased off and it was a relaxed finish to the top.

We had lunch on the summit, sat in the sun feeling quietly smug, before starting the descent. It kicked off with a slightly awkward downclimb, then followed a vague trail through boulders and snowfields, eventually spitting us out back at the base.

By then, El was properly cooked in the heat – so we hit the nearest café and ordered a litre of water, a pint of Coke, and a bowl of ice cream. Sorted.

That evening we drove to Argentière to kip in the van – we’d earned a rest day.