Our first day back in Ailefroide got off to a solid start. We woke early – rain was forecast for 11am – and wanted to get a decent route in before it hit.
We climbed Une Chance au Grattage (6a, 4 pitches). To save time, we decided to link the pitches and lead two each. Good flow, good rock, and a stunning backdrop.
Sunrise in Ailefroide is something else. The valley’s dead quiet except for the river – soft light, no one else around. Magic.

After the first route, we reckoned we had time for one more. El went for a line graded 6a – no name in the book, just a number. Except this wasn’t a 6a. It felt more like a stiff 6b+. She nearly pulled through the crux but bailed just short.
I gave it a go and somehow scraped up it – probably just a height thing. El followed on top rope, and we both agreed – no way was that 6a.
Right on cue, it started to spit with rain. We abbed off rather than pushing on for the second pitch, then wandered to the café for crêpes and Frits Mason.
Back at the van, we spent the afternoon lounging about – bit of reading, bit of snoozing. A proper good start to the trip.


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